Old Missoula

Lewis and Clark Are Sent To Open Up Northwest

In April 1803 President Thomas Jefferson made the historic decision which was to open the Pacific Northwest.

He sent Captains Meriwether Lewis and William Clark on an expedition to find “the most direct and practicable water communication across the continent for the purposes of commerce.”

His vision was rewarded in his selection of two valuable men to make the long and difficult journey which others had tried and failed. Lewis, at the age of 29, led the expedition. Clark, who was four years older than Lewis, became Lewis’ subordinate.

Lewis left his job in Washington – private secretary to the President – to make the journey. Born near Charlottesville in 1774, he abandoned his studies at the age of 18 to farm for two years. He then joined the volunteer movement to suppress the whiskey riots, and later entered the regular Army.

Clark was also a Virginian. During his boyhood, the family moved to Louisville, Ky., and in 1796 after serving eight years in the U.S. Army he resigned his lieutenancy in the service because of poor health. At one time, Lewis served under him. In March 1804, after he had been selected as Capt. Lewis’ assistant, he received a commission as second lieutenant of artillery and not as captain of engineers as he had hoped. The title of captain is generally applied to him, although he was not officially entitled to it. Lewis, however, made him his equal in every respect.

On the Lolo

Upon their westward journey in 1805 Lewis and Clark had camped for two days in October at the mouth of Lolo Creek and named that stream Traveler’s Rest.

Their camp was located on the south bank of Lolo Creek just south of where the town of Lolo now stands. It is believed that at Traveler’s Rest Lewis packed away the specimens he had collected of what became Montana’s state flower, the bitterroot.

Indians who found the bitterroot principally in that valley used the plant for food and called it spitlem. They called the nearby river spitlem seulkn, “the water of the bitterroot.”

On the afternoon of Sept. 11, 1805, the expedition left Traveler’s Rest. They made only seven miles the first day due to a late start. Soon after setting out on the second day, the canyon closed in on the stream and the explorers followed Indian trails on the hills to the south. They made a dozen miles that day, and on the following day, Sept. 13, they reached the hot springs.

Hot Bath

The place afforded the only chance the explorers had to take a hot bath, and they took advantage of the opportunity on their return trip as well. In two and a half years the adventurers had only two hot baths.

The explorers took care to describe the pinnacle rocks just north of the Lolo Hot Springs swimming pool at the west flank of the rocky canyon. It is believed that the explorers crossed the divide at Lolo Pass where the present highway now reaches the summit. After camping near or at what is now called Packers Meadow, near Lolo Pass, the explorers left Montana.

On Rattlesnake Creek

On the return trip through the mountains, July 4, 1806, Lewis was traveling on the ground where Missoula is today. His journal shows that he spent the night of July 3 at a “small creek” (Rattlesnake) and that on the fourth he left camp about noon to travel to the mouth of and eight miles up on the north side of the Blackfoot River.

Curiously enough, Clark probably never saw the river which bears his name. At Traveler’s Rest the expedition divided to meet at the confluence of the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers. Clark went up “Clark’s River” (Bitter Root) and across the divide, while Lewis went via the “East Fork of Clark’s River” (Clark Fork) to the mouth of the “River on the Road to Buffalo” (Blackfoot) following up that river and crossing the main range to the Missouri.

Curious Mixture

The party which accompanied Lewis and Clark was a curious mixture. It consisted of three sergeants, 26 privates, Lewis’ valet – York, who was a Negro; two interpreters, Sacajawea, a Snake Indian and wife of one of the interpreters, and her 14 month-old papoose.

Sacajawea, who served as a guide, created a colorful legend when she was reunited with her people, after being taken captive as a girl by another tribe.

Clark was a great object of curiosity and affection to the Indian because of his red hair. They spoke of him as the “Red-Head,” and St Louis, the place of his death, as “Red-Head’s Town.”

Clark Becomes Governor

On his return Clark served for six years as brigadier general of militia and Indian agent for the territory of Louisiana. In 1813 Gen. Clark was made governor of Missouri. He held that position until Missouri became a state in 1820, and afterward became superintendent of Indian affairs, an office he held at the time of his death.

Lewis, on his return, was commissioned governor of the Louisiana Territory. He was afflicted by disease and while under an attack of his disease it is believed he shot himself in 1809. Some said the tragedy was due to the protest of some notes which he signed ex officio and others believed he was murdered.