Old Missoula

 

Below are quoted three letters written by Charles Schafft to the Weekly Missoulian in 1888. His main subject was the ‘Four Mile Flat’ which encompassed an area near Fort Missoula and the Bitter Root River, south of Missoula. In 1888 the Buckhouse Bridge was approximately 4 miles distant from the small settlement of Missoula. The ‘Four Mile Flat’ included a swath of land stretching from the modern Missoula fairgrounds to the Buckhouse Bridge and was famous for harboring carpets of the perennial Bitter Root plant, scientifically named “Lewisia rediviva.” This Flat area also bordered the Fort Missoula military reserve area – Hence today’s loathsome Reserve Street.
Schafft was particularly interested in what he termed Boyle’s Hotel which came to be known as Four Mile House. This was a tavern created by William ‘Billy’ Boyle in the 1870’s in response to the arrival of the brand-new Fort built in Missoula in 1877. It was located approximately where the south end today’s Walmart parking lot meets Brooks Street. Schafft’s imagination included a nearby hotel and depot. There was never any hotel on the Flat, nor a Railroad depot. But by 1890 Boyle’s very real saloon was locally considered a den of vipers and Billy Boyle a persona non grata. By 1895 seven U S soldiers had been killed there under various circumstances, most of which involved alcohol.
Schafft’s satirical account of this area’s development refers to numerous other subjects that were topics of that era. The brand-new Bitter Root Railroad really did travel by the Four Mile House on its way to Lolo and other points south. Customers were known to complain about what they witnessed as the train passed the saloon. Schafft mentioned Billy Boyle’s investment in Lolo Hot Springs which was in conjunction with the notorious Missoula madam, Mary Gleim. A prospective hot water pipeline from Lolo Hot Springs to Missoula is an example of Schafft at his hyperbolic best.
Schafft sarcastically referred to the “Missoula Mercantile County” which mocked the influence wielded by the powerful Missoula Mercantile business in Missoula’s history. Schafft’s “Four Mile Flat Blizzard Improvement Company,” is a caricature of the “South Missoula Land Company,” an A B Hammond organization that developed the slant street section of early Missoula which is a consternation to this day. Hammond came to be pictured as an economic blood sucking Missoula octopus by his local rivals.
For all his biting brickbats Charles Schafft still maintained a lighthearted picture of the ‘Flat.’

 

 

Charles Schafft – First letter about “Four Mile Flat”

In Weekly Missoulian: 1/27/1888

Letter From Four Mile Flat

Editor Missoulian: – Although there is scarcely a citizen, dead or alive, dwelling in Missoula Mercantile County, who has not passed from one to a hundred times through the “Four Mile Flat,” this distinguished locality seems to be little known to the general public and an item from here may awaken the memory of the old-timer and draw the attention of a pilgrim.

“Four Mile Flat” was established a long time ago. It was preempted by A. Blizzard in the winter of 1861-62. He is the same breezy fellow who returned here regularly each January and makes it warm for subsequent settlers (by the stove). Travelers have been annoyed by young Blizzards, during the cold season, when journeying along the road, and a military post was established as early as 1866 with a 22-inch rifled thermometer to regulate things. But the ammunition of the thermometer sometimes freezes up in the shell and then but few people venture through here.

However, in spite of contest, regular people have staked out claims, improved them under difficulties and now hold substantial homes well protected against any storms of whatever nature – and, in fact, a town has sprung up which at present is already as large as Missoula was in 1865. The foremost street upon which the principal business is done is named Front Street; it extends from the great water cure establishment of Uncle Tom Turner at the south end to celebrated bottling works of Billy Boyle at the north end. A full description of these two great houses cannot be given in brief – but the traveler through the valleys of the mountains should tarry here long enough to sample the splendid stock and lay-outs at Billy’s and imbibe some of the genuine fire-water of XXX – 1877 at Uncle Tom’s. These two are our leading citizens, and in course of time they may form themselves into the “Four Mile Flat Blizzard Improvement Co.,” and make a fortune they so richly deserve. Our private residences are located somewhat back from the business blocks. They are chiefly built in the ancient style of architecture, well protected in the west by cotton-wood trees, and stylishly furnished inside with the old time elegancies. The new railroad cuts up the flat considerably, but the company hopes to shut off blizzards by building fences – and the establishment of a depot at Boyle’s will give a new impetus to everything; in fact, town lots are beginning to show up where everything was blank white a week ago. The mercury has grown up four inches and gentle chinooks wander through the streets with airs from the Pacific. Passengers on the Bitter Root should lay over at the “4 mile” station where they will not only find full and complete maps of the town and surrounding country but also a perfect line of refreshments in season. It is now, and has been, the terminus for short excursion, by all kinds of vehicles, from the Missoulian metropolis.

The Flat can be reached by rail very early in the morning with a guaranteed return in the evening; tickets are for sale in all the principal hotels and eating houses in Missoula, and the round trip rate should encourage the thirsty man to come out here and get his bitters by steam before the diamond breasted barkeepers give their first yawn in bed at the capital. Water never freezes here in the wells and is given freely to all early comers who stand in need of ablution.

Solid meals consisting of the best the country affords can be had at any time; the latest papers and periodicals are kept on file, and for common pass-time a semi-occasional comedy is enacted in one of the prominent saloons at about 3 p. m.

Altogether, the “Flat” should be investigated to be appreciated – a boom is on ahead, and even on the bare hill sides high up toward the adjacent mountains [claims] have been taken and fenced, and the future owners of such claims contemplate planting them with the seed of the pine so as to have on hand a supply of timber hereafter, for the distant mines and smelters, to provide their posterity with merchandise; and it is supposed that in these distant days the uncertain currency now used in this county will be replaced by solid shingles.

C.S.

 

Charles Schafft – Second letter about “Four Mile Flat”

In Weekly Missoulian: 2/10/1888
County Correspondence
Four Mile Flat
During the last two weeks the flat has had quite a lively appearance, the ranchers have thawed out, and travel in all directions is large. Among the many visitors to the town of “Four Mile” were several real estate speculators – but our citizens will not sell corner lots now at any price, they are waiting for expected prosperity later in the season; and if the promised boom does not get side-tracked at some other station, property will take a sudden and surprising rise. At all events, if the boom does not come, the bum most assuredly will.
At a meeting of prominent business men it was decided to give the place a permanent name so that it might find a place on the maps of the nation. Among the names proposed was Boyledown, Turneroff and Fordham, but it was finally decided to stick to the old appellation of “4 Mile.” A petition for a post office will be circulated next general election day when the large number of democratic voters, for which the precinct is noted, will be out in full force and sign the petition as many times as may be required to insure success.
Some of the citizens contemplate giving their buildings a coat of whitewash and repair crippled fences at an early day; all of which will add materially to the beauty of the town. An examination of the grass roots proved, contrary to expectation, that they had not been frozen dead, and the usual carpet of green will greet the eyes of visitors before another year has gone.
This town, although so small as yet, has had its mysteries and experiences – and the searcher after historic lore will find here a mass of interesting items. There have been loves and murders, suicides, burglaries and romantic incidents. Only this winter, during one of the coldest days in January, there was a mysterious disappearance. One morning Billy Boyle missed an elderly female boarder and her little one from the premises; the door to their domicile stood wide open, and the state of affairs indicated that the parties had left in their ordinary every day apparel. Search was immediately instituted, but the drifting snow had obliterated all traces and the nature of the weather did not permit of a systematic effort being made. However, on the morning of January 14th, while an old hunter, armed with a hatchet, was going to cut out wild ducks that during the previous night had been caught and frozen fast in the Bitter Root, he passed over a place where the snow showed up unmistakable signs of blood and a struggle; he turned off and reported the facts at “4 Mile,” and Billy, accompanied by three or four other brave men started out to investigate. A short but difficult walk revealed the bloodstained coverings last seen on the lost ones – but nothing else, except the evidence that a crime had been committed. It has now been elucidated and circumstantial evidence goes to show that those two missing Poland China hogs – were abducted, killed and eaten, by a clandestine foraging party of the United States army, now stationed in that far and ferocious wild west, the eastern boundary of which joins on four mile flat.
Boyle, being one of the proprietors of the Lo Lo Hot Springs, is now employing a large force of men to grease up harness and put his overland coaches in condition for active service. He runs a stage line to the noted health-giving resort every season. A great number of applications from many suffering patients have already been received for transportation to, and accommodation at the watering place and there will be a great rush as soon as the roads have settled down for business.
Billy and others are now figuring out a scheme, and they think there is millions in it. It is nothing less than to form a pipe line company to convey the hot fluid underground from the Lo Lo Springs to the water-famine-stricken inhabitants of Missoula, and thus insure them a never-failing supply of hot water during the coldest days of winter.
C. S.

 

Charles Schafft – Third letter about “Four Mile Flat”

In Weekly Missoulian: 4/16/1888
He Sears Away into the Imaginative Regions of Thought.
The boom has come! And the grass is growing rapidly. Only two short months ago most sanguine business men of this place never dreamed of the possibilities that were developing. An Arctic winter has jumped into the tropics, and oranges have taken the place of snow balls.
Tired of hunting for a drink of fresh water among the brick dust of Missoula I applied to a friend and obtained a dead head passage on the outside line of the M. & B. R. V. R. R. [Missoula & Bitter Root Valley Rail Road] to return to a section of country where the “Lewisia rediviva” [Bitter Root] will soon be in full bloom.
I arrived at the principal hotel of this rising town at 5:30 p. m., and after listening for a few moments to the soft rustling of the leaves of the sycamores, which will be planted in front of Boyle’s, I succeeded in obtaining room No. 13 in the overcrowded hotel. Refreshed by an elegant supper prepared by a noted culinary artist, I took a drive through the contemplated streets. It is altogether impossible, in a short article like this, to describe the improvements mapped out; but they are astonishing, and of great credit to the enterprising gentlemen who manage the place. The call for lots has been so great and they are held at such prices, that there will probably be three or four additions to the town in another year. A map of “Craney’s addition” is now being completed by civil engineers of Missoula and lots will be offered for few days only next week.
The old school house of “Four Mile District No. 11,” has been entirely renovated (with insect powder) and a new set of scholars with an old teacher have been appointed. A lot has been appropriated at the intersection of the principal streets for a house for such worship as may be required by cosmopolitan people.
Nearly every train brings numerous arrivals and the hotel register shows names that have become famous in the world of finance, industry and science. Last night’s express delivered an agent from the Agricultural department at Washington D. C. The department has learned of the surprising climatic changes which take place on “Four Mile Flat” and desires to purchase ground sufficient for an experimental nursery for extreme northern and southern plants, for the production of valuable hybrids. The proprietor and employes of our hotel are now kept busy day and night, and the quartermaster of Fort Missoula has been called upon to furnish tents for accommodation.
When the great number of patients come in who have sent application for passage from this point to the Lo Lo Hot Springs, an additional hotel will probably be started. A regular line of overland coaches for the “Springs” will be started on the 1st of May.
That wild territory west of us [Fort Missoula] and so long occupied by the genial 3rd “boys in blue and white,” is to be turned over to the charge of the 25th regiment of “Colored gentlemen” of the U. S. Army in the beginning of June, and the change in complexion may possibly affect the climate of the “Flat” to a slight degree.
During my late absence there has been several prominent departures recorded. Tom Turner had to leave suddenly on business which admits of no return, and his late popular establishment is at present closed for future consideration. “Red” was summoned by trans-Atlantic telephone message to Europe by a brunette lady of fortune. Handy Andy left in search of wealth among the foundations of Missoula, and the “oldest inhabitant” has been hung by a vigilance committee to a budding cottonwood tree for false predictions in regard to the weather.
C. S.