Indians / Fort Missoula / and “trout are exceedingly plentiful”
Indians/Fort Missoula/and “trout . . . are exceedingly plentiful”
The following article is taken from Historical Reprints – Early Days at Fort Missoula, edited by A. E. Rothermich – Sources of Northwest History No. 23 – Montana State University – Missoula – General Editor Paul C. Phillips – reprinted from the Historical Section of Frontier and Midland, a Magazine of the Northwest, published at the Montana State University, Missoula. Vol. XVI, No. 3 – Spring 1936.
Headquarters Fort Missoula, M. T., October 8th, 1879
Lt. Col. George Gibson to Colonel Delos B. Sackett, Inspector General, Hdqrs. Division of the Mo.
In compliance with your verbal request that I should furnish you with certain data in regard to this post and its surroundings (taking in a pretty good scope of the country) I hasten to do so, regretting that the dilatoriness of others whom I was obliged to consult, prevented its being transmitted more promptly.
INDIAN TRIBES LOCATED IN THIS SECTION OF COUNTRY: Three tribes have their homes in this region viz: The Flatheads, numbering about 470 souls; The Pend d’Oreilles, 1,000; and the Kootenais, 500. The Flatheads are divided into two bands, one being located at the general agency for the Flatheads, Pend d’Oreilles and Kootenais in the neighborhood of the Jocko river, about 32 miles from here, the other in the neighborhood of Stevensville, in the Bitterroot Valley (28 miles to the south of us) scattered up and down the Bitterroot river possibly a distance of 18 miles. The band at the Agency is under the leadership of ‘ARLEIGH”[1] who was, I believe, created a chief by the Commissioners who treated with these Indians some seven years since. It numbers 120 souls, and is the recipient yearly, of an annuity of $5,000.00. The band at or in the neighborhood of Stevensville, numbers about 350 souls (to whom about 25 Nez Perces have attached themselves) having for its chief ‘Charlot’ who is the son of the former Chief ‘Victor’ who was originally chief of the whole Flathead tribes. In 1855 Governor Stevens made a treaty with the Flatheads, which was ratified by Congress in 1859, and which only expired during the present year. Owing to Charlot’s band having failed to remove to the reservation in compliance with the directions of the Commissioner who visited this section of country seven years since, the government has, I believe, declined to provide for them since that time. This, I think is to be regretted for I am informed, that when the Nez Perces made their appearance among them at Stevensville, just previous to General Gibbon’s fight at the Big Hole and endeavored to induce them to join them, they declined, thereby unquestionably saving from annihilation the very settlers who are at present occupying much of their land. [Emphasis added D.G.] They are even now looking anxiously to see if Commissioners will be sent by the Government this fall to do something for them. I really think the great cause of their remaining quiet this long, is entirely attributable to the presence of Catholic Missionaries among them, who, certainly exert wonderful influence in this respect. I think this remark may be said to apply with equal force, possibly, to the remaining tribes. Despite of the disadvantages under which Charlot’s band labor, I am told that some 35 families till the soil.
HABITS OF THE TRIBES PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED. As a general thing, they are peaceful, subsisting to a great extent by hunting and fishing, as well as farming to a limited degree, the Government furnishing some aid. Firearms are used by all the males, being procured by trading with the neighboring tribes and undisciplined white men. Being well supplied with horses, they move about a great deal, sometimes they go after Buffalo to the east of the Rocky Mountains, and upon application, a few men are sent with them, from this post. The game in this immediate region cannot be said to be abundant, consisting of deer, Rocky Mountain Sheep and goats. Trout however are exceedingly plentiful in the “Bitterroot” the “Lolo” the “Jocko” and the “St Regis Borgia.” I myself caught in the Bitterroot yesterday, one which measured thirty inches and weighted nine pounds, this with delicate rod and tackle, – whilst I have been the recipient , quite recently, of several caught in the Jocko by Indians, all of them large fish, the largest one of which measured 36 inches and weighed 13lbs.
[It should be noted that information related herein – surely one of Missoula’s earliest reliable fishing reports – using “delicate rod and tackle” – mentions the Bitterroot River, Lolo, Jocko and St. Regis rivers; not the sadly exploited Blackfoot River, the Clark Fork River, or the all too famous blue-ribbon Rock Creek. The Colonel may not have had the opportunity to fish in those waters. Using “light tackle” would seem to imply he was fly fishing, but not necessarily. Too bad he did not specify what method he used. D.G.]
Major Ronan who is in charge of the Jocko Agency informed me that the Indians of this section have 4000 acres under cultivation, that some mechanics have been employed to assist them, and that goods to a limited extent are issued them. I am unable to ascertain that officers from this post have been called upon to witness any payments of annuities, etc.
I should judge that Major Ronan is popular with the tribes which he represents. It is true Chief ‘Arleigh’ made complaint several weeks since about distribution of some hay which had been cut on the reservation, he claiming half of it, but inasmuch as he had failed to furnish some of the force to cut it (as he had agreed to do) Major Ronan did not feel himself under obligation to cut said hay for him.
In addition to the Catholic Mission established at Stevensville (previously spoken of) another exists at Soneilem Creek[2] called “St. Ignatius” about 53 miles from here and which exerts the usual peaceful influence upon the Indians under Major Ronan’s charge, both of the missions have, I believe, most excellent schools, admirably attended.
The white population is somewhat sparse in this region. The nearest town to us is Missoula, four miles to the East of us, just across the Hell-Gate river, and numbers 500 souls. It boasts of an hotel, a bank, a half-dozen stores, drug store, hardware store and grist mill, whilst two saw-mills (steam) are located on little streams emptying into the “Hell-Gate”, possibly five or six miles distant. Frenchtown, another little village of one hundred and eighty inhabitants, is situated further down the Hell-Gate on the right hand bank, about 14 miles below. Stevensville (previously mentioned as being located on the “Bitterroot” 30 miles above us) numbers 150 inhabitants, whilst scattered up and down the river may be, possibly 400 people engaged in agricultural pursuits. No doubt quite a number of white people, are scattered thru the mountains, mining.
No organization exists, I believe, among the white people for protection against the Indians. As yet, since my arrival at this post, no complaints have been made for depredations by either Whites or Indians, whilst both stages, and travelers, pass on their respective ways unmolested. Beyond doubt the liquor law is violated, as far as the Indians are concerned, but by whom, or to what extent is not known. In fact, it is a matter the Military cannot possibly control, civil authority being supreme here.
The soil in this region along the water courses, is most admirably adapted for raising first rate hay, magnificent oats, and the finest kind of vegetables of all kinds, which are furnished at reasonable rates, together with a good quality of fuel. Good flour can also be had very cheap. A want of a market will necessarily have the effect of keeping produce low for a long time to come. Plenty of wood can be procured (Pine and Tamarack) within five or six miles of the post. In fact, the Government has a wood reservation in a Mountain Canon about that distance from us, embracing 1600 acres. On it is most excellent timber for building purposes, and it is only for want of a good steam saw mill, combining planning and lath machine with other improvements, that we are unable to finish the post ourselves according to the original plan. Said reservation was visited by me within the past few days. Crops can be raised in this vicinity without irrigating, though irrigation is resorted to considerably.
[The Colonel is correct here. After prospecting in Montana and Idaho for several years, my GGrandfather, Owen Kelley, settled and farmed one mile north of the Fort starting in 1870, a few years prior to the Fort’s existence. He gave his address as Big Bitter Root Bend. One section of his property was located on what is now Kelly Island. With his brother, William, he successfully raised oats, hay & vegetables & no doubt later sold them at the Fort. In need of irrigation water, Owen and some others dug the Target Range ditch, starting near the Van Buren St. Bridge, in 1878. Regarding fishing – no reports of his success survived; however, Missoulians have historically caught fish locally if they cared to. Regarding today’s fly fishing craze, to my knowledge Missoula bait fishermen were not normally ridiculed, at least not in my small circle of Missoula fishing friends who fished happily with anything available while living and working in or near Missoula, including worms, maggots, grasshoppers, hellgrammites, salmon flies, lures, and of course artificial flies – in my time especially the fabulous Potts flies. I know of one longtime local fishing family (not mine) that long ago found and still uses a favorite course of river near Missoula and still remains secretive about it. – D.G.]
Supplies are forwarded to this post by boat from Bismarck to Benton, and from the latter point to Fort Missoula by contract, via Ft. Shaw, Helena and Deer Lodge, trail wagons being used.
Whilst stock can be readily raised here, it strikes me, possibly, that the neighborhood of Fort Shaw is better for the purpose. The streams are liable to rise in the spring, being fed by snows which fall in the mountains close by. Undoubtedly the Mullan road is much affected by freshets as shown by the number of bridges which Captain Penrose was obliged to construct in repairing it quite recently. As far as I am able to judge, the roads are used more by miners than emigrants.
Passes through the Rocky Mountain chain: Indian Agent Ronan informs me that five passes pierce the main range bounding the Flathead Reservation on the east, viz: One sixty miles north of Flathead Lake, one at the Crow Creek, 12 miles North of St. Ignatius Mission, one at the Flathead Agency following up the Jocko river to its head, one at the head of Flathead Lake and one up the Blackfoot river. The passes more immediately in the vicinity of Fort Missoula, are “Hell-Gate” pass four miles distant in a northeasterly direction, “Coeur d’Alene” directly west and “Lou-Lou” nine miles south of the post.
The Hell-Gate pass is the one by which the post is approached from Helena and Deer-Lodge, the Mullan road being built along it, and which is continued westward through the Coeur d’Alene. The most important pass however, as far as Indians are concerned is believed to be the Lou-Lou, as it opens into the Bitterroot valley from Idaho, being the great northern trail for the Nez Perces from the Clearwater country going east by the Hell-Gate. Three miles above the town of Missoula, in the Hell-Gate pass, what is known as “Cadottes” pass, commences at the mouth of the Big Blackfoot river, running up said river in a northeasterly direction until the headwaters of the Dearborn river are reached. By this pass cavalry with packs have been enabled to pass from this place to Fort Shaw.
Whilst Captain Penrose was repairing the Mullan Road in the Coeur d’Alene pass recently, he reported that Indians were constantly passing to and fro, they being unknown to him.
From its peculiar location in such close proximity to so many important passes, I cannot but think that Ft. Missoula is destined to play an important part in controlling the Indians of the western slope who are in the habit of raiding in this direction, but not with its present weak depleted garrison of four little Infantry companies, numbering in all 137 enlisted men, to whom will be added shortly, possibly, some 35 recruits from Fort Shaw, the Headqrs. of the Regt., none of the command being mounted. During the past summer and fall, three of our companies have been actively employed, two in repairing the Mullan road 119 miles west of here, the third in constructing a telegraph line from this place to Helena. The last mentioned company is still out. The consequence has been, that it was with exceeding great difficulty that a sufficient number of men could be found available for guard purposes and conducting the affairs of the Quartermaster and Commissary Departments, 15 men and 2 non-commissioned officers being required daily to guard the prisoners, QM stables and Forage house, QM and Commissary warehouses, the Hay shed and Magazine.
Quite recently a letter was received by me to rebuild the double set of officers quarters burned to the ground last winter, as well as to erect a new forage house, which work has just been entered upon by me. In a conversation had with delegate “McGinnis”[3] who visited this section some ten days since, he expressed himself as being quite sanguine in regard to securing this winter a final appropriation for the completion of the post. Unfortunately in both cases, a resort has to be had to the labor of soldiers almost entirely, as the estimates had to be based on that kind of labor, which will have the effect of weakening still further this command, as far as offensive operations are concerned. Under the circumstances then, and in view of rumors having reached here (which were communicated to Dept. Hdqrs. several days since) that possibly some disaffected Nez Perces, Umatillas and Spokanes would band together next spring to pass eastward ostensibly after buffalo, which would bring them through here. I have thought possibly it would be advisable for the Lieutenant-General to increase my force somewhat (if even temporarily) by ordering two or three companies of Cavalry into Camp at this place for the summer. I think they could be taken care of more cheaply here, than at any other point in the territory, forage being so exceedingly low and of such excellent quality. Hay this year, cut within four and one half miles of the post cost $11.97 per ton, and oats $1.47 per hundred lbs. It is believed hay will be sold next year at $10.50. The oats raised in this region weigh from 28 to 44 lbs per bushel. Flour is only worth $2.25 per hundred. Potatoes from 25 to 40 cents per bushel and onions from ¼ to ½ cent per pound and other vegetables in proportion.
In regard to the white population in this region, I beg leave to submit the following estimate furnished by Mr. Frank Woody of Missoula, a gentleman well acquainted with this portion of the Territory.
Estimated population of Missoula County:
Missoula and immediate vicinity……………… 500
Frenchtown……………………………………………… 180
Stevensville……………………………………………… 150
Corvallis……………………………………………………. 100
Skalkaho…………………………………………………… 75
Population of Bitterroot valley outside
of towns…………………………………………………… 400
Scattered population of Hell-Gate &
Grass Valleys…………………………………………….. 300
In Nine-Mile mining camp…………………………. 60
In Cedar Creek mining camp……………………… 40
In Quartz Creek & Windfall mining
camps………………………………………………………… 40
In Flathead Lake County……………………………… 20
In Horse plains County………………………………….10
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Total……………………………………………………… 1875
The Flathead Lake country is a stock country and distant some 150 miles north of Missoula. Horse Plains is some 90 miles distant N. W. Cedar Creek, Quartz Creek and Windfall are distant from 60 to 80 miles west of Missoula. The Bitterroot valley is some 60 miles long and the settlers are scattered throughout nearly the entire valley.
Concerning the transportation of this post, whilst the report of the A.A.Q.M. recently rendered, shows to be on hand the following, viz: 22 horses, 89 mules, 1 ambulance, 13 Army wagons, 1 escort wagon, 3 spring wagons, 30 aperejos, 2 carts, 2 cart harness (sets) 48 SS sets wheel harness, 78 SS lead harness, 19 saddles wagon and 14 saddles riding, it would be better represented reading thus – of the 22 horses only 2 are serviceable, 20 having been condemned and ordered sold. Of the 13 wagons, one is a water wagon, one being arranged as a dump cart on a large scale, the remaining 11 needing repairs, various kinds, from constant usage, the majority having encountered very severe usage in removing obstacles from the Mullan road. Of the 3 spring wagons, one needs repairs. Of the 48 SS wheel harness, 16 sets are new, 22 sets old and 10 sets unserviceable. Of the 78 SS lead harness, 28 sets are new, 38 sets old and 12 sets are unserviceable. Of the 19 saddle wagons, 12 are new and 7 unserviceable and of the 14 riding saddles, 12 are new and 2 unserviceable.
In connection with the condemnation of the foregoing mentioned 20 horses, a Board was convened at this post for the purchase of 30 horses for use here, but were obliged to adjourn on account of being only able to procure but one. I have deemed it advisable not to sell the used up ones, poor as they are, until they can be replaced and have so reported to Dept. Hdqrs. Virtually I am unable to mount a dozen of men in case of an emergency requiring expedition.
Since writing the foregoing portion of my answers to the interrogations propounded by you, in course of conversation with Mr. Demers of Frenchtown in relation to the passes of this region, he gave me to understand that the Couer d’Alene pass was one that was much used by Spokanes, Umatillas and Nez Perces and now that the obstructions along the Mullan wagon road had been so well removed during the past summer, that unquestionably it would induce more than ever to come this way. Twenty seven thousand sheep and three hundred horses came this way quite recently.
Whilst, as will be recollected, I have stated that, I have been troubled with few or no complaints since my arrival here, of difficulties between the Indians and the Whites, yet I am informed that when the season for planting sets in, that many troubles arise in the Bitterroot valley, caused by the encroachments of the whites upon Charlot’s band.
During the past few days, observing a number of this band passing eastward through the town of Missoula by the Hell-Gate pass (men, women and children) I dispatched a letter by courier to the Rev. Father D’Aste’ in charge of the mission at Stevensville, asking explanation. He promptly replied that they had started eastward for the purpose of hunting buffalo in the Musselshell country, giving me their numbers and the route they purposed travelling, which information I promptly transmitted to the District Comdr. at Helena. By a ruling of the War Department, the Bitterroot Flatheads are regarded as “Domesticated Indians” who are to be permitted to go to and fro as they please, being subject to the laws of Montana only. As a consequence they passed my post by without deeming it necessary to call upon me for a little escort. Charlot the head chief remained at home. Father D’Aste’ told me a short time since that permitting these Indians to roam at will through the settlements, on their road to the buffalo country, was perfectly ruinous to them, on account of the young men getting hold of whiskey and becoming unmanageable. Leaving whiskey out of the question, they conduct themselves very well. Still it is to be regretted that the Government does not move in the matter of doing something for them this winter.
Your attention was especially called during your sojourn at the post to its unfinished condition, so that nothing more need be said by me on that subject.
A more serious difficulty which the troops serving at the distant posts in the northwest labor under, is the manner in which they are supplied with recruits. For the second time they have been dispatched by the last boat up the Missouri (instead of sending them early in the season (which necessitated their being marched overland from Cow island (on account of the lowness of the water) to their destination and this frequently in most inclement weather. My impression is after receiving the 35 men expected from Fort Shaw by Capt. Penrose, next spring will again see my little command of 4 companies sadly depleted by further discharges.